Guide to Buying a Used Stand Up Jet Ski

Not everyone is looking to buy a new stand up from a dealer. There can be many great used skis out there so here are some things to look for when buying a used stand up jet ski.

Most older stand ups will be two stroke engines, other than the new SXR 1500 and Hydrospace skis which are four stroke engines.

Engine:
1. Engine compression within a proper range.
Compression numbers vary for each model and if the ski has aftermarket engine components. A quick Google search with get you pointed in the right direction for the year and model of ski you are looking at. Careful if the spark plugs are rusted and corroded, that could mean poor maintenance.

2. Exhaust not cracked, couplers supple and tight.
Water runs in jet ski exhaust so check mating surfaces for oil or water seepage, could mean a bad gasket. Manifolds, header pipes, and chambers can crack from vibration and wear over time. Look at bolts for wear and rounding, could mean they are seized or have been removed often.

3. Four stroke engine has clean oil.
Two stroke engines need oil mixed in to the gas, whereas four stork engines have oil in a pan or reservoir and oil pumps to circulate the oil around engine components. Check oil to make sure not contaminated with water (white, creamy color, foamy if run). Oil should not smell like gasoline (ring blowby, leaking injector seal, etc) or smell burnt from overheating. Overly black oil could mean ring/exhaust blowby, gas contamination, or improper maintenance schedules. Four stroke engines should not smoke. Smoke on startup could mean worn valve seals, smoke while running or warm often indicates worn rings.

4. Look into front cover.
There should be no rust, moisture, or oil on the flywheel or stator when you shine a light in the front cover plug hole. Moisture or rust on the flywheel could mean front cover gasket leak. Pressurization and/or oil under the front cover could mean leaking front crankshaft seal.

5. Check starter and bendix function.
If the ski starts then most likely you do not have a flywheel tooth, starter, or bendix issue. Solenoid clicks could indicate starter issue, or stuck bendix. Also could mean faulty start solenoid or bad connection somewhere.

Bilge Area:
1. Corrosion & rust.
Let’s face it, used stand up jet skis have spent time in water and they can corrode. However, the amount of corrosion and where it is located matters. Limited or no corrosion on metal parts shows that the previous owner(s) performed proper maintenance after riding and that can mean good things for the rest of the maintenance history. Context clues! Watch out for corroded electrical connections especially. Bolts with obvious discoloration or rust could mean they are not stainless steel and not factory.

2. Obvious signs of modifications.
Sometimes aftermarket parts just do not fit well, but keep an eye out for bolts with wear as that could mean the particular item it secures has been tampered with more than once. Look at engine plates for fitmet grinding, exhaust dents, engravings on engine cylinders (sometimes a good thing if from a well-known engine builder!), etc.

3. Fiberglass in good shape.
Bilge areas can be subject to a lot of water over a ski’s lifetime. Check for bubbles in paint/gelcoat or any kind of delamination or splintering.

4. Leaks.
If you have the chance, try to see the ski in the water before buying. This way you can identify if there are any engine water line cracks, midshaft letting water in, hood seal not sealing, fiberglass etc leaks. Oil in the bilge area, especially around rear coupler could mean leaking rear crankshaft seal. With a two stroke ski, light oil everywhere could indicate fuel leak somewhere, and gas has evaporated leaving only oil.

Fuel System:
1. Fuel lines supple with no cracks, swelling, or visible damage.
For obvious reason you do not want fuel spraying in the bilge. Fuel lines commonly crack at carb and fuel tank connections, also acute bends are prone to cracking. Another fuel system common issue is a frozen fuel selector which is easily remedied by replacing or removing (will eliminate reserve).

2. Fuel tank holds pressure.
This is two-fold since the tank should not leak, and the check valve on the tank should be functioning. A non-pressured tank will create a fuel starved engine, often not identifiable from just idling and will rear it’s head once you get on the water.

3. Carbs function.
Hopefully the ski starts and takes throttle. The ethanol in fuel these days can cause nasty consequences if left to sit in the carbs. If the ski has trouble starting and does not want to take throttle it could mean the diaphragm(s) are old and stiff. If it refuses to idle the pilot jet(s) could be clogged. If it will not rev all the way the main jet(s) could be clogged. If it has a very high, or climbing idle that often means an air leak from a bad gasket somewhere. The longer a ski has been sitting, or the older the ski (assuming no maintenance), the more likely it will have carb issues when buying or soon after buying once fuel starts flowing through tired carb components.

Hull/Tray:
1. Fiberglass damage.
This is an obvious one, but like the bilge area look for gouges, delamination, bubbles in gel coat, and soft areas under the tray mats which could mean cracks and waterlogged tray foam.

2. Check intake grate and ride plate for damage.
Intake grate and ride plate should be flush. Look for missing bolts, damage, rust, or rounded.

Pole & Steering:
1. Fatigued spring.
Does the spring keep the pole up? Springs get fatigued from use and can make the pole feel heavy.

2. Pole damage or dents.
Stock poles can be fiberglass with foam inside, check for cracks or fatigue around rivets. Check aftermarket carbon or aluminum poles for dents or fatigue as well.

3. Hard to turn steering from worn bearings/bushings or loose.
Water is hard on mechanical components and parts of the steering are considered wear items. Check steering for play from side to side as well as over tightness or ‘steppy’ motion.

4. Pole cables not pinched or cracked.
Since the pole on a stand up jet ski moves you have to check the cables and wiring for cracking, wear, rubbing, etc at the entry and exit points as you move the pole up and down.

5. Handlebar controls all function.
Make sure throttle opens and closes without hanging or sticking. Move the pole up and down and the steering through the full range to make sure nothing pulls too tight. Make sure start/stop switch works by testing buttons. If the ski requires a lanyard, make sure pulling the lanyard while the ski is running kills it.

Pump:
1. Check impeller for damage and wear.
Obvious dents and nicks in the impeller can cause vibration and inefficiency. Shine a light in to check wear on the pump’s wear ring, should not be really scratched up or have discoloration. Some pumps can sound loud and rattly, but excessive noise could mean worn bearings.

2. Check all pump bolts.
Make sure they are all there, tight, not rounded, and not rusty. Four bolts should hold the pump to the hull. Also check same things on reduction nozzle bolts.

3. Check steering nozzle for movement/damage.
Make sure it moves from side to side all the way with no binding. Some play is fairly normal, but excessive play could mean worn, broken, or rusted steering cable. Make sure nozzle is not cracked.

Did I forget anything? Let me know!